"Everywhere I went -- from the traffic-choked streets of Tehran in the north to the dusty desert town of Yazd in central Iran, to the elegant cultural centers of Isfahan and Shiraz -- I was overwhelmed by the warmth and, dare I say it, pro-Americanism of the people I met. [ The Iranians -- people, not mullahs -- were also one of the few people to hold candle-light vigils in sympathy with us after 9/11. But you'll never hear that from the EneMedia political commissars either. -ed. ] "